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From the Kitchen

2 min read

Sushi Sagara

Cooking by the Coals

The appeal of the charcoal grill lies in contrast: a lively surface and a carefully cooked centre.

Four fish grilling over glowing charcoal

The charcoal grill gives the dining room one of its most recognisable flavours. It is there in the blistered skin of a pepper, the browned edge of fish, and the surface of a piece of wagyu. Each ingredient meets the same fire differently.

More than a smoky flavour

It is easy to think of charcoal cooking as simply adding smoke. The attraction is also heat: how quickly a surface colours, how the edges change, and how much tenderness remains inside. The grill creates contrast without requiring an elaborate finish.


Our kitchen cooks over binchotan. On the menu, you will find it with vegetables as well as meat and fish. A shishito pepper and a portion of black cod need different attention; treating them alike would lose what makes each worth eating.

A place for restraint

Sea salt, citrus and fresh wasabi appear beside grilled dishes because the main ingredient already carries much of the interest. A bright finish can make a rich bite feel more balanced. It does not need to compete with the browned surface.


When sharing, let the grilled dish take its place in the meal rather than waiting behind several other plates. There is a particular pleasure in the first bite, while the surface still has its newly cooked texture.

Building a meal around the grill

You might begin with a cold plate, move to shishito peppers or tsukune, and follow with fish. Or choose one grilled dish alongside sushi and rice. Your server can help keep the order comfortable for the table, with enough contrast to make each plate feel distinct.

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Dinner from 5:30 pm in Nolita and Park Slope

Reservations open 30 days ahead: dining room at 10 am, counter at noon.

Dinner from 5:30 pm in Nolita and Park Slope

Reservations open 30 days ahead: dining room at 10 am, counter at noon.

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