Warmth, seasoning and a gentle touch: why the rice deserves as much attention as the fish.

The clear broth behind soups, simmered dishes and some of the menu’s gentlest flavours.

The appeal of the charcoal grill lies in contrast: a lively surface and a carefully cooked centre.

A starting point for choosing between sencha, gyokuro and hojicha, without turning dinner into a lesson.

A closer look at nigiri: the cut, the rice, the seasoning and the moment it reaches you.

White miso, a browned surface and a tender centre: a dish built around a few clear pleasures.

Donabe rice asks for a little planning and gives the table a warm, generous final savoury course.

Blistered peppers, dressed spinach and the value of contrast on a shared table.

Wasabi, daikon and shiso are part of the plate’s balance, not simply its decoration.

How a dark, crisp wrapper changes the texture and character of a mouthful.

Counter Omakase or the dining room: two ways to enjoy the kitchen, with a different rhythm at each.

Begin with the people and the occasion, then let the menu and setting follow.

A cup can echo a dish, offer contrast, or give you a quiet pause between courses.

Crisp tempura, soft tofu and warm custard: a varied meal is about more than flavour.

Black sesame pudding, a final cup of tea, and the pleasure of letting dinner come to a close.

Why this seasonal fish from Nemuro is an autumn favourite, served as nigiri or grilled whole with salt.

What our buyer looks for at the auction, and why we buy three times a week.

A guide to your first visit: what to share, how much to order and how to pace the evening.